Well hello!It’s been such a long time. We’re back on the road, once more to Kenya but this time from top to toe.It’s a bit of a long story how we came to do this journey.I won’t bore you with the details but the upshot of it is that Agy’s had 2 weeks to organise this whole trip.He and his mate Andrea have made so many modifications to the vehicle that the brick has now been transformed into ze Beast. As you know, we’ve been living in Ethiopia for getting on for 18 months now and it’s been quite an experience.
Ethiopia is very different from any other African country we have visited.Geographically it’s classed as the Horn of Africa, bordered by Sudan, Eritrea, Djibouti, Somalia and of course Kenya. The people are beautiful and fascinating.A very proud nation, particularly so as they have never really been colonised.Recent history has been rather chequered.Following the deposure of Emperor Haile Selassie in the seventies and the terrible times of the Dergue until the late eighties, the country has regained its composure, resulting in the fairly modern yet ancient society we see today.
During our time here we have visited a quite a few places (although still very much to see).Below is a snapshot of some of the treasures Ethiopia has to offer.
Sunday 6 September
Well, I’m ready to go.Woke up at 6.00 and finished the packing.Poor Agy’s sick – worried it might be ‘man flu’. He’s awake now and getting paranoid about the weight of the car. What with all the modifications, the suspension may not survive the bumpy roads of northern Kenya. I’m sitting here watching Eastenders of all things – not even Ethiopia can escape Eastenders - and getting a bit impatient.Oh, think we’re ready to go and we’re off! Dropping into our favourite restaurant at Debre Zeit (meaning Mount of Olives) called Dreamland.The view over Bishoftu crater lake is superb. We’re lucky today as they’re performing the famous coffee ceremony.
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Back on the road after a delicious special omelette and fruit juice – their mixed fruit juices are sublime.
Glad we’re travelling on a Sunday. The traffic is much less dense and the first part of the road we take winds all the way to Djibouti, the main supply route from the coast. However, today we are turning off at Mojo and taking the rift valley route to the Kenyan frontier.Driving past lakeLangano, Shashemene where Haile Selassie donated land to the rastas, through the lakeside town of Awasa.
Awasa is the capital of the Southern Nations, Nationalities and People’s State (quite a mouthful) which stretches all the way to the Kenyan Border. This region represents no less than 45 different ethno-linguistic groups. An hour further on we arrive at our first destination – Aregash Lodge, run by Gregory and Marika. It’s a beautiful place and very peaceful. All you can hear is birdsong.The tukuls are fashioned in traditional Sidamo village style. We arrive in time to watch the Egyptian vultures dine.When they have finished feeding it’s the turn of the spotted hyena.
An added bonus, Tgst is performing the coffee ceremony as the hyena eat.Although coffee and beer are a bit of a strange combination (remember the rule – day on the road, beer to follow, St George in this case), the coffee is delicious and straight from their plantation.
Monday 7 September
We’re enjoying breakfast on the veranda and a pair of Menelik’s bushbuck are feeding below.
Having begged a flask of coffee and loaf of wonderful home-made bread – food is lovely here – we recommence our journey to the Kenyan border.The weather is fine and is great for us. Not so good for the locals, however, as they had expected more rain by now.
After the green, coffee growing area and busy university town of Dilla, the road climbs until we reach a peak of over 2,500 m. The countryside so far has been very lush but as soon as we begin our descent, the terrain changes and becomes more and more dry.We witness a camel market before the landscape gives way to reveal little more than termite mounds.
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We arrive in the border town of Moyale at around 4.00 pm and decide to do the paperwork for customs and immigration now, rather than leaving it until the morning.We encounter a Swiss father and son who have just arrived from an East African tour on motorbikes. Since watching Long Way Down with the fabulous Charlie and Ewan, I’ve had a bit of a thing for bikes and fantasize about learning to ride some day. A couple of bikers came to stay with us last year on their way to South Africa and that also fuelled the dream.Anyway, I digress.
The Swiss guys tells us that the last couple of days along the dicey roads of Northern Kenya have been pretty tough so we will need to take it steady.
We decide to stay at Koket Boarana Hotel – quite a pleasant little place.The rooms are spacious including 2 double beds and a single, proper party room to have a sleep over with your mates.Not bad for 10 euros. We want to eat but have gone all western and don’t dare touch the meat in case we’re sick tomorrow. ‘Just 2 plates of chips’ says Agy ‘not very hungry, we ate earlier’. Actually we’re starving. Wow, these are very tasty – so we order two more. The waiter then tries to coax me into taking the meat dish ‘zilzel tibs’, fried/grilled beef strips done over charcoal. ‘Oh we don’t eat meat’ I lie. ‘Okay’he says, a bit puzzled. Now children at home, you should never tell fibs as they will come back to haunt you. Agy, who has just been to the bathroom, comes back and sees the tibs go by. They smell delicious. ‘When we come back in a month’s time, we’ll have those’. The water looks at me as if to say – you strange ferenji (foreigner) – you’re not hungry, you don’t eat meat, yet you order double portions of fries and promise to have tibs next time you’re in town. We slope off to bed. Tuesday 8 September
It’s 8.30 and we’ve just crossed over into Kenya – hurray! We’re sitting at the immigration office and we receive a warm welcome – wonderful to be home.
We have a long drive ahead through an area known for bandits, called ‘shifta’. Local knowledge says that there have been no recent daytime incidents so we decide to leave the convoy behind – please don’t tell my mum, she’ll have a fit. The drive is very interesting; a little slow at times as the roads aren’t so good but we’re on holiday so where’s the hurry? We pass through the (Chalbi) desert for a couple of hours and wonder how anyone could live here but amazingly, a few nomadic people are dotted along the way with their livestock – they must all be specially designed to survive this terrain. Finally, the road starts to rise and little by little vegetation returns. We are approaching tonight’s destination, Marsabit. Wow, that crater is impressive.
Now, we must find our campsite. We’ve heard that Swiss Henry’s is a little gem, just outside the main town towards Nairobi. Yes, think it’s this way. Following the turnoff to the cereal store on our right and just after the meteorological sign, taking a left and heading for the hill. We end up in a building yard but that’s alright and here we are. It’s lovely. The little campsite is right behind the yard and has everything you need. There’s even a bakery.
I think Agy needs a bit more than bread at the moment as he discovered a puncture as soon as we drove onto the site. Don’t worry, I’ve found the perfect medicine for him.
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Our arrival also excites curiosity from the farmyard dwellers.
9 September
8.00 am: Following last night’s puncture we’re here in Marsabit having the tyre fixed. Mind you at 1.50 euro a time to repair we will definitely have to watch our pennies.
On the road now and preparing for a 250 km bumpy ride down to Samburu. Yes, it is rather like travelling on a washboard but as long as we stick to a steady 25-40 km/ hour we should be ok – man this is tedious. We find a few sandy off-roads just to vary the journey a little.
Many people along the way try to flag us down. I think that some of these are the gabbra tribesmen, recognisable by there rifles.I have to admit that we’re reluctant to stop, fearing banditry. However, there is one young camel herd who points to his empty sprite bottle. The message is clear. We slow down and he takes his empty bottle to the back of the car where we fill it.He downs it in one go. We then refill the bottle ‘chakula’ he asks – we give him a few slices of bread. The situation here is slowing beginning to dawn on us. We have seen a few dead cattle on our way and we realise that there is a serious drought in this country and we’re witnessing its effect, first hand.
Finally arriving at Sarova Shaba lodge in Shaba, sister reserve to Samburu.This reserve boasts the dubious honour of being the location where author Joy Adamson of Bornfree fame was killed in 1980. The lodge is beautiful and staff very friendly.A couple of giant kingfisher are also perched outside our room.
We again hear of the problems that this drought is causing. Lack of water always leads to tribal tension and cattle rustling which is in fact what is going on in this region. The samburu, borana and turkana clans are once again locked in a deadly dispute over scarcity of resources.
10 September
You know occasionally in life you meet with extraordinary coincidences? Well, this morning, Agy was asking the way to our next destination, Meru. Someone pointed to one of the safari drivers who is accompanying a party over there.Agy turned around and spotted the vehicle first – our vehicle,from our time here in 2006. He looked again at the driver and realised that it was Paul from Steenbok Safaris who had looked after us so well at the time. Don’t you find that incredible? Kenya’s a pretty big country and Shaba quite a remote reserve.It was only due to a last-minute decision that we decided to come to this lodge at all. Paul’s clients are really nice and fellow African Adventurers and we’re soon travelling together to Meru. Another coincidence, they will be staying in bandas right next door to where we camp.
As we drive through the park we see waterbuck, gazelle, elephant, giraffe and this black cat who seems to have a kill.It may be a serval, although we’ve never heard of a black one before – still there’s a first time for everything.
Bet you think it’s an old moggy.
The camp is set in an idyllic location (think I should have been an estate agent) by a small river. Impala are grazing and even a reticulated giraffe feeding. Agy decides to call him Gerald. We all go for a game drive together and spy a Grevy’s zebra amongst the common Burchells’. Unfortunately, we’re not close enough to get a decent picture.
Stopping by Pippa’s grave – a cheetah raised by Joy Adamson whose story is recorded in ‘The spotted Sphinx’.
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We’re now back at camp. Whilst Agy puts up the tent he realises that all of the jolting from the previous day has caused it to disintegrate. This is not looking good, especially as the light is fading by the minute. I start to prepare dinner. Finally, he manages to sort out the tent – he’s brilliant. Now we can relax. I ask him to light the gas stove for hot water. Suddenly, the gas canister is alight and Agy’s running around with it in his hand. ‘What can I do?’ ‘Run and hide’. This is terrifying so instead of doing as I’m told I stand there petrified and scream (what a brilliant ranger – in a crisis, scream) but no one can hear. Agy picks up the canister and tries to put water from the jerry can on it. It’s still in flames. He now has it under a tap and finally the flames die down. We’re both shaking but thanks to his bravery no harm is done. He really is my hero. He realises once again that all the bumps from yesterday’s road have caused the gas ring to come loose, allowing the gas to escape.We can’t wait to go to bed to feel safe.
I’m awakened by a deafening roar ‘stay very still’ whispers Agy. There are two lions outside, very close by. Once again I start to shake. When we followed the rangers’ course in South Africa and spent the night out in the open, there were around 15 of us including an instructor complete with rifle, it was a thrilling experience. Tonight it’s just us with a flimsy piece of canvas between us and the wild; a totally different sensation. Wait, there’s a vehicle approaching. Agy looks through the netting and hears Paul calling to ask if we’re ok. That’s so reassuring to know he’s looking out for us.
This is going to be a long night.
11 September
We survived. It’s now 5.30 and dawn is breaking. We watch the simba brothers slink away into the bush. In retrospect, it was all rather exciting although it didn’t feel like that at the time. What could have happened with that gas bottle doesn’t bear thinking about but we survived and that’s the main thing. Chatting with Jackson, the caretaker here, we ask him about the lion. ‘Oh, they’re no bother. I walk out in the morning sometimes and there they are lying on my veranda’. Bet you’re thinking what a pair of wooses we are. ‘And how about the giraffe?’ ‘She loves people – she just hangs around the site for the company’. Looks like Gerald may be Geraldine.
While Agy fiddles around with the car, I decide to wash up and Gerald(ine) who’s been eating from the surrounding trees all morning, decides (s)he wants to get up-close-and-personal with me.Talk about invading one’s space.
Game drive! It’s so dry that we decide to stick to the riverside but there isn’t a lot about.
Let’s go for a cup of coffee at Elsa’s Kopie and leave the beasties in peace.
Idyllic.
Continuing the game drive we arrive at the plains.Plenty of common zebra but mingling along with the rest is one lonesome grevy’s standing right by the side of the road.Fantastic, we can sit here and take as many shots as we like.
Been after him for two years.
Back to camp and our friends in ‘our’ van very kindly invite us to camp around their bandas tonight.Wimps that we are we seize the opportunity.
We’re sitting on the porch enjoying a few drinks and it’s great fun.They are so warm and welcoming – we’re all swapping Africa stories.By the time we get to bed we’re too tiddly to worry about the roaring going on outside.
Sobered up now.It’s around 2 am and the elephants have moved in to drink from the river about 50 m away.Those pussy cats are long forgotten – elephants are much bigger.
