An Adventure in Africa

Link International began about five years ago in Kampala.  The idea was to invite youngsters from independent schools in the UK to volunteer in refugee communities, orphanages and schools, helping to equip the local people with skills for improving their lives.  Since then a brand new centre has been established in Kampala to accommodate the students. 

Link International has recently set up a new location called Queen Elizabeth Safari Camp, overlooking the national park in Western Uganda.  The original purpose of this camp was for the youngsters to come to relax following all their valuable hard work in the city.  But, as you may have found out from your own experience, sometimes events have a way of taking on their own dynamics and this seems to be the case here.

In April, Gavin contacted us to ask whether we would be interested in becoming involved in coordinating the safari and community development aspects as this camp is situated within the local village of Kyambura.  I have to say that this project has captured our imaginations and we are itching to get over there and see for ourselves where it will lead us.  So read on to find out what happens.

10 November

Good morning and welcome to Kampala.  Pack a couple of things in a bag because we’re off to the rain forest with our friends and hosts, Gunna and Tony. 

Do you remember Tony, our hero from last year who took us out on Lake Victoria and saved us from ferocious monitors and being dashed against the rocks, then coolly carrying on fishing?

Anyway, back to the present and the road to the rain forest typifies African life. 

I didn’t know pineapples grew like that and look at the way they dry their coffee beans behind those children.

Just look at that magnificent jacaranda tree in full bloom.

This rain forest is gorgeous and tranquil.  We’re staying at the aptly-named Rain Forest Lodge.

We could do a forest walk but to be perfectly honest just don’t have the energy after yesterday’s long flight (our excuse) so spend the afternoon swimming, snoozing and watching red-tailed monkeys leaping whilst sampling the local Nile breweries beverage – us that is, not the monkeys.

After a delicious dinner we relax around the fireside before returning to the terrace for a nightcap and a round of the local pastime known as ‘spot the bushbaby’.  This is great fun for all the family and involves shining a torch into the trees and waiting for a pair of amber eyes to stare back at you.  We’re serenaded to sleep by the call of the forest  hyrax, reminiscent of someone being strangled, very loudly.

11 November

We’re pleasantly relaxed and reluctant to leave our forest haven but Tony has the great idea of driving over to Jinja to another Haven – a lodge overlooking the river Nile.  Another idyllic spot.  We watch those mad individuals white-water rafting over rapids known as the dead Dutchman, need no explanation as to why.  Call me boring but I’d rather be birdwatching from the safety of the riverbank. 

The Haven (www.thehaven-uganda.com) is eco-friendly, making maximum use of solar power and this will definitely be top of our list of places to stay the next time. Now we must start our journey back home to Kampala.

Here we are again and dropping by Tony’s sister Lesley’s place to pick up their boys Kristjan and Sean.  Lesley’s claim to fame is that she was an extra in the film ‘The Last King of Scotland’.  Unfortunately her role was cruelly cut out of the film but apparently you can just about catch a glimpse of daughter’s left sleeve if you peer really closely.

We enjoy some quality time with the boys (just an excuse to act like kids really) …

… then head off to a new steakhouse for dinner.  Kampala is like a brand new city following its revamp for the Commonwealth Heads of State Meeting (CHOGM) taking place next week.  Virtually every phrase contains this acronym, it’s hot news over here.

12 November

A relaxing morning spent sorting out clothes and browsing through the Link International details.  We’re very excited about this project and can’t wait to get going.  After a spot of shopping with Gunna she drops us off at Selena’s for coffee.  Selena and her family recently moved to Kampala from Brussels and they are really enjoying their new life here.  She remarks upon how safe she feels.  This is a reassuring confirmation as so many people have been asking us whether the country is secure since we told them we were coming here.  It’s important to remember that it’s been a good 25 years since the bad old days of Idi Amin and Uganda is now one of the safest countries in Africa.  So you see mum, there’s nothing to worry about.

Tony meets us so we simply have to drop into Bubbles O’Leary’s for a swift pint on the way home.  Well, it would be rude not to.  And yes, it is an Irish pub.   After a Nile special (Uganda’s answer to Tusker but with a meaner kick) we’re in a party mood and enjoy a couple more at home over a delicious moussaka made by Jane, the fantastic cook and all-round angel employed by Gunna and Tony.

13 November

We’re waiting for John to arrive.  John runs Link International here in Uganda.  We haven’t met him before so we’re naturally excited to finally meet the man in charge of operations over here.  He picks us up and takes us over to the centre he’s built in Kampala.  This is a great place for youngsters to stay when they come over to volunteer in the local schools.

Now we’re driving over to a school in one of Kampala’s shanty towns.  Well, this place is poor.  It’s the first time we’ve ever really been in a slum and a very humbling experience.

There are open ditches, rubbish everywhere, corrugated iron shacks and smiling people – once again you wonder how people can live like this yet remain cheerful.

The school is wonderful; teachers welcoming and children enchanting.  Incredibly it’s a very joyful and uplifting experience to see smiling, excited faces amidst the squalor.