An Adventure in Africa

7 July

Well, the condition of the Kenyan roads up to now have been brilliant. 

We are in a town called Isiolo to refuel.  The people seem to be pretty poor here and they clamour around the vehicle as we refuel at a petrol station.  One man, who seems to be high on some sort of substance, asks us where we’re from – we say England and he replies “oh, European Community” – interesting that he makes that connection straight away, even in his condition.

Oops, spoke too soon, the roads have taken a turn for the worse.  They’re dry and rocky but still we manage to get along at around 30 kms/hour.

The communities here are really very poor.  We’re in the land of the Samburu.  The people however are quite beautiful and their dress striking.  The samburu are cousins of the maasai and equally distinctive in their red clothes.  Having seen the film The White Maasai, I can quite appreciate how you could fall for one of these guys.  Don’t worry Agy, you’re still my number one Welsh warrior - just grow your hair a bit and throw on a red teatowel, we'd never know the difference (dream on).

This answer reminds me of the reply to another recent question we posed when enquiring at a petrol station when their new maintenance bay would be reopening. “When it’s finished”.  Of course.  This is  what we love about Africa, life is so straight forward. 

The lodge, Samburu Sopa, should be called Samburu Super. 

Whilst driving along earlier, we heard a rattling noise at the front of the vehicle so we’re just having a look at it.  We’re joined by a couple of security guards who take a listen too.  Agy has removed the glove box and is intently checking out the fan behind.  I open and close the door a few times to locate the sound.  Still can’t find it.  However, our new mates have.  It’s only on the front bars of the van where a bolt has worked itself loose – so obvious we didn’t spot it.  See what I mean? Why go for the complication when the simple option is the key.

That was such hard work that it’s now that time of day we’ve been waiting for since last September – Tusker time, yeah! You can’t beat a slurp whilst watching the sun go down. 

For those who weren’t with us last year, Tusker is Kenyan beer and the perfect antidote to a long, hot day in the bush.

Whilst at dinner, overlooking the waterhole, a spotted hyena lurks in the background.  A few minutes later, three black-backed jackal scamper around in the bushes.  You don’t need to travel far to see the wildlife here.  Meanwhile an African rabbit hops around as though he/she (can’t tell from here) hasn’t a care in the world.  He would if he knew how many predators were surrounding him.  We’ve been joined by a male impala, calling in for a drink before bedtime.  Our rabbit seems to have taken a shine to him as everywhere the stag goes, old Roger follows.  How sweet.  Oh, looks like the impala’s turning in for the night, think we’ll do the same.  See you in the morning.

8 July

“Oh what a beautiful morning, la la la”.  It’s gorgeous.  Look at Mount Kenya over there, so clear.

Well, let’s take a gentle drive around to see what’s on offer.  We seem to be surrounded by hills and once more the views are superb.  Our quest here in Samburu is to find a Grevy’s zebra.  This is a rare relative of the common Burchell’s zebra and only found in conservation areas in this region.  But, as always in the bush, just being here is what matters and whatever we see is a bonus.  We’re turning into a place called Sundowner where we have magnificent views across the plains and to the hills beyond. 

We think we can spot zebra but they’re too far away to distinguish.  A wonderful bonus is to discover that there is so much birdlife here and the birds and animals seem far less shy than in other reserves.

That was a yummy cup of coffee but hold on, what’s that cheeky little monkey doing here?  I daren’t take a photo as he’ll probably pinch the camera.  He’s just opened my coffee pot, taken a sniff, decided he doesn’t like it so now has his nose in the milk jug and is necking the lot.  Well I never, absolutely no manners.

The afternoon drive has now begun and eagle-eyed Agy has spied a zebra.  Is it a Grevy’s? Yes it is hurray!

Another species to compare and contrast is the giraffe.  Up here you tend to find the reticulated variety, as opposed to the maasai species further south, whilst in Southern Africa you tend to get the Southern giraffe.

9 July

We’re very lucky because Nash, a Steenbok Safari driver, is here and he has kindly invited us to follow his party on a game drive this morning.  It seemed like a great idea at the time but they’re leaving at 6.30 so we’re still a bit sleepy. Doing your own thing can make you quite lazy. 

Oh but I’d forgotten how wonderful it is to be out and about at this time of the day.  We enjoy watching the light change as the Samburu wakes up, it’s golden.

That’s given us quite an appetite so it’s back to the lodge for breakfast before taking to the road again, armed with a picnic, in search of more excitement.

We pop over to Sundowner once more and again pinpoint a heard of zebra in the distance.  It’s a long shot but let’s take a ride down to try to find them.  Oh, look at those golden-breasted starling, spectacular.

We’re down here but no luck on the zebra front.  Never mind, that’s what safari’s all about, the animals are not going to jump out of the bushes and say “surprise”.

Let’s cross the bridge to Buffalo Springs.  We’ve heard that a leopard lives over the other side of the river.  We follow the river and it should be around here.  There are some Ruppell’s vultures up in the tree.  See that cute little chick (in an ugly kind of way) in the nest?

Ah now then, there’s a truck under that acacia and they seem intent on photographing something above them.  “The leopard’s up there” says Agy “I can see his tail”. Honestly, I don’t know how he sees these things.  Oh yes, what a beauty. Just sprawled in the tree and enjoying the peace and quiet.

“Agy, they’re getting nearer and they have young.”

Another fright, we have a great big wasp in the van.  We’ll open the windows so he can get out.  He’s is, no he’s back in again, he’s out, he’s in, he’s out.  Let’s get out of here.  Ah, that’s better, under the shade of a tree and no wasp.  You’d think after all the safari’s and time spent in the bush that we’d be used to the insect life by now.  Well, take it from us that some of them still freak us out, what a pair of wooses.

Shall we sneak another look at that leopard?  He’s still here and we’re all alone.  It’s a very intimate moment, just us and him (or her, can’t quite tell from here).

Back home and never was a Tusker so welcome – after dinner it’s straight to bed.