We’re off exploring.As I said yesterday, when you first do safari all that seems important is the Big 5.Believe me it isn’t.Everywhere you look there’s something to see.As the grass is high, we’ve decided to check out the birds, my passion.Yet on the journey we stop by a little pond and see a hippo family accompanied by impala drinking from the edge.The road is quite hairy in places, particularly the one circling Shaitani (“devil”) crater.The lava flows are very impressive, if a little spooky.We have lunch at Poachers’ lookout, again with dramatic views over the plains and extinct volcanoes, very Lord of the Rings.Just waiting for Bilbo Baggins to pop by to join us for second breakfast. We’re trying to find a KWS office where we were told we could pay our park fees.After a frustrating hour and a close encounter with a buffalo, we give up and head for the nearest lodge, Kilaguni.Upon arrival we learn that this is where we pay so that brings our blood pressure back down to normal.Gradually winding our way back home we see loads of wildlife; herds of zebra, giraffe, antelope and a big bad elephant.Back at the hippo pool we are witnessing a martial eagle stealing a fish from the mouth of a hammerkop – wicked.
Is this a road?
On one of the tracks of Taita Ranch
11th May
We wake up early as there’s a long journey ahead of us.The road out of the park is quite hairy in places due to the recent rainfall.But thanks to Agy’s superb driving (and a 4x4) we make it safely to the gate.We enjoy a bit of leopard tracking on the way, don’t actually find one but it’s fun trying. We’re going to Lake Naivasha, via Nairobi.That’s a part of the journey we’re dreading.I’ll worry about that later, right now I’m just enjoying a brilliant view of Mount Kilimanjaro from the road.For once it isn’t hidden by clouds.
Close to Nairobi now and lost count of the lorries that have either broken down, overturned or shed their load.Incredibly the traffic’s quite light through the city and we clear it in about half an hour.After being stopped by one of the many police roadblocks, we continue our journey.The road is good and views of the Rift Valley stunning.Lake Naivasha is a fresh-water lake and haven for hippo and many bird species (yippee).It’s also the Kenyan centre for flower export production.Many of the roses you buy from the florist come from here.
Hippo Pool,Tsavo West
Tsavo West in rainy season
Big cat tracks, Tsavo West
Cat track, Tsavo West
12th May
Destination Kisumu, close to the Ugandan border.Once again the road passes through beautiful scenery.We are right in the middle of the Rift Valley and pass Lake Elementeita.It’s totally pink in places with millions of flamingo using it as a bed and breakfast to break their journey.Suddenly we’re waved down on the road by friendly locals indicating that there’s an accident ahead.Yet another lorry has overturned.We’re diverted to a side road where the villagers obviously haven’t seen such excitement in years.The local school children are jumping up and down with glee at the sight of all this traffic, especially the funny mzungu (white guys) in a matatu (bus), i.e. us. We’re driving through the tea estates around Kericho.Kenya is the world’s 3rd largest tea exporter after India and Sri Lanka so the producers are an essential part of the economy. We’re stopped yet again by a police roadblock and escape unscathed.It’s around 4.00 p.m. and we’re just arriving in Kisumu.It’s the 3rd largest town and sits right on Lake Victoria.In fact, I’m now enjoying a beer and watching the sunset over the lake.But it’s not quite as peaceful as it sounds because Kisumu is a bustling town and we’re sitting here in the hotel bar that leads straight onto the main street.You pick up all the hurly burly of the city and it’s a great atmosphere. Got to tell you this – a sign in the ladies says “Polite Notice: Flash after use”.
The majestic Mount Kilimanjaro
Kericho tea plantation
13thMay
I’m just humming the old song “On the road again”.This time to Uganda’s capital city, Kampala.Just before we arrive at the border town of Busia we stop for diesel and a quick loo stop, not for the faint hearted and no “flash”.This guy approaches us telling us we need a clearing agent to get through customs, especially with the vehicle.It’s hard to know who to trust so we call our mate in Nairobi and he tells us just to proceed to the border.So we do and as we arrive this agent is already there.The frontier post is a bit of a nightmare.You’re confronted by long lines of trucks and tankers, people on bikes and beggars.Our new friend barks out various instructions at us while we’re being bombarded by money changers, hawkers and orphans pleading for anything.To cut a long story short, about an hour and a half later and several thousand shillings lighter, we clear customs.We’re now in Uganda.They still have police roadblocks but not as many as Kenya.We’re just being flagged down by one.I dutifully roll down the window and produce our papers.“Why are you offering me documents when I’d like some water” laughs the armed officer.I scrabble around in the back of the van and hand him a bottle.Just continuing on our way when Agy asks me whether he gave us back our papers.Now I’m in a blind panic, check the glove box and they’re not there.Neither are they in my handbag or folder.“He must have kept them” I say, nearly in tears.So we turn around to the roadblock.I’m explaining to him that I think he has the papers and open the glove box once more.There they are, right at the back where they were all along.“Very sorry” I mumble, mortified.Anyway, he’s quite amused.How embarrassing.
We’ve managed to find our way to Kampala and are currently waiting for our friends to meet us to take us to their home, where we’ll be staying for the next few days.We met them in TurtleBay a couple of years ago. It’s so good to see them again
