2^nd May

Welcome to Lamu!  The minute we get off the plane we’re greeted by rain like you’ve never seen.  We trudge our way to the jetty protected by a leaky umbrella, about as useful as the proverbial chocolate teapot, to find the boat that will take us to the island.  All motorised transport has to stop on the mainland in Mokowe, as there are very few (3) vehicles on Lamu.  We’re herded down to a little launch covered by a big sheet of plastic.  The islanders are apologising for the weather and I happen to be sitting next to a French couple from Lille, indeed it is a small world.  The boat pilot tells us that the hotel we’re booked into is closed – oh well, another adventure.  We arrive at the jetty, drenched through and a local tour guide greets us to take us where, I’m no longer sure.  But all’s well, the sister hotel is expecting us.

 Lamu is like stepping back into the 19^th century.   It has long been an Arabic port and was very prosperous around the 16^th century, for slave trading, amongst other things.  Today, Lamu is predominantly Moslem and has a totally different feel to the rest of Kenya.  Due to the narrowness of the streets, the main form of transportation is donkey.  You find them (and cats) running around all over the place.
Our guide, Awaso, takes us on a little tour of the town.  We see some of the architecture, many buildings consisting of coral bricks.  He also takes us to see the Riyadha Mosque where the Maulidi festival was celebrated last week. 

Hard to imagine that the streets were crowded with thousands of people, they’re so narrow they must have been like squashed sardines.

It’s 7.00 pm and we’ve braved the squalls to go to a local restaurant.   We ask the waiter what the catch of the day is “we’ve sold out for now but if you wait 5 minutes you’ll find out”.  So we do and, sure enough, 5 minutes later a wicker basket appears full of white snapper.  We eat it with Swahili sauce, a mixture of coconut and limejuice accompanied by coconut rice, it’s a real feast.  Think we’ll be paying them another visit tomorrow.  By the way, you can’t wash it down with a nice glass of wine as most of the restaurants are dry in Lamu, the best place for a drink is the hotel.  I quite enjoyed mine with a bottle of Fanta complete with straw, like being a little girl again.

3^rd  May

It must be 5.00 am as the nearest mosque (of which there are 28) is calling the faithful to prayer.  We doze back off to sleep and wake up to brilliant sunshine.  We run to the balcony to take pictures.  By the look of those clouds the rain will soon be back in town.

Sure enough it’s pouring down now.  Never mind, we can sit on the veranda and chat.  It’s brightening up a bit so we venture out with our chocolate teapot to take a stroll down the coast to Shela.  It’s a beautiful walk and Shela, with its long sandy beach, is apparently where the rich and famous hang out.  Think it’s a bit wet for them today though.

We’re back at the hotel and have decided to sit and let Lamu come to us.  Agy’s settled in with a beer and his camera so all’s well with the world.  Lamu’s the perfect place to just watch the world go by.

4^th  May

Well, isn’t it just typical, we leave today and the weather’s perfect.  This is going to sound a bit ridiculous but we’ve decided to visit the local museum.  Actually, it’s quite nice to be in the coolness of this old Arabic building and home of the former Commissioner.  We enjoy a very interesting tour and learn quite a bit about the life and history of the island.  The museum is sandwiched between a catholic church and a mosque.  As we’ve been told, everyone lives peacefully as brothers here.

We’re just in a café enjoying banana and mocha milkshakes.  I haven’t told you this yet but we had been planning to leave for safari tomorrow.  Unfortunately, we’ve just learned that we won’t be leaving as the logbook is not yet ready, without that we won’t be able to travel to Uganda.  Déjà vu or what?

We’re at Lamu airport and the plane’s just arrived to take us back home to Malindi.  It’s the cutest little airport you’ve ever seen.  The open-air departure lounge is definitely more comfortable than many back in Europe, no cheap plastic seating here. As Turtle Bay Beach Club is now closed, we’re staying at our neighbouring watering hole, Ocean Sports.  Now we’re going to enjoy a beer and watch the sea.

6^th  May

It’s 7.00 am and as the sun rises over the ocean we have our breakfast.   But we can’t hang around for long as we’re off to Mombasa to organise the first part of our safari.  You honestly would not believe the roads, or the driving.  We’ve seen 3 lorries in a ditch and a billboard at the side of what passes for a road says “Improve our roads, stop bribery”.

We’ve just arrived in Tsavo East National Park and once those gates close behind you, the rest of the world melts away.  National Parks in Kenya are owned by the government and run by the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS).  We just love this feeling of being alone with nature.  Probably sound like a bit of a tree hugger now.  On the way we spot loads of game including elephant, giraffe, zebra, antelope and the lovely birdies. 

 Satao Camp (www.sataocamp.com) is beautiful and we have a tent overlooking the waterhole.  We tend to go for tented camps now because you really feel you’re where it’s happening.  This afternoon it’s time to go it alone on safari for the first time.  It’s great.  We see quite a lot and can stop when we want to and check the books to distinguish our grants gazelles from our impala.  Do you think we’re turning into a couple of anoraks?

 Now, after a hard day’s safari you need a Tusker beer followed by a nightcap of amarula liqueur around the camp fire, swapping animal tales/tails.  A lovely Danish couple are enjoying their honeymoon here just like we did all those years ago.  I think they have the Africa bug too, careful guys, it won’t let you go!

7^th  May