Katy, Agy, Tsofa and Sarah preparing to teach class 8
Tuva,winner of the Brussels Airlines cap
Tsofa Mweni
Sarah and Katy
13 April
Following a morning’s work, TurtleBay have invited us on a dhow trip to the Creek for sundowners. It’s a very pleasant way to be spending the late afternoon, sipping dawas, seeing the birds, watching the Kenya sun go down and the moonrise. Very romantic!
14 April
After another morning’s typing, we treat ourselves to a lazy afternoon on the sunbed at TurtleBay. We bump into an old friend, Denis, one of the beach boys. He tells us he’s doing ok. Now he has a spot on the beach so he can take tourists out on excursions. The beach here in Watamu is self-regulated by these boys who have mostly left school after primary so have no qualifications. This is how they get by but it’s low season at the moment so they don’t find much business.
This evening we revisit one of our favorite bars, Bustani ya Eden (Garden of Eden) where Steve, our barman, remembers us from last January (that’s a bit worrying, what did we do!!!).
A date with a Tusker at Ocean Sports
Chicken at the local eatery,Kuku Choma
15th April
This afternoon we need to go to the nearby town of Malindi. Malindi is a an historic town once occupied by the Arabs, then the Portuguese and today is a busy commercial and tourist centre. We don’t know the town too well so decide to go with our mate Denis.He takes us to a little bar overlooking the sea and we spy on the headland a monument to Vasco da Gama who received a warm welcome there from a friendly Sultan.As we get out of the car an old man approaches us with a bucket of the biggest fresh prawns you’ve ever seen. He only wants a couple of hundred shillings for them, so tempting but where will we cook them. We have our supplies and decide to head home. Now I have to let you into a little secret here, Agy is not very “au fait” with the speed bumps that you find in every town and village in Kenya. We already had one close shave on the way back from Mombasa last week.Today is to be no exception. There is a sudden jolt as my top and bottom jaw crash together and I realise that he’s just found another. We need to get fuel anyway so go straight to the nearest petrol station. He starts to panic as water is dripping from the front of the van. I know he’s worried so decide to sit it out in the van (always the preferred option!). He has a good look and decides, much to everyone’s relief, that it’s just water dripping from the air conditioning system. Phew for now! Tonight we’re going to try a new restaurant called Choma Village. It’s a beautifully designed restaurant, set outdoors (why would you want to be inside when the weather is always so good here) and each table has it’s own thatched (makuti) roof representing a Kenyan town. We eat in Mombasa. The food is lovely and service great. A lady comes round and washes your hands between courses, what more could you wish for?
16th April
We’re having a wonderful day chilling out by the sea. It’s marvellous living at a hotel, especially Turtle Bay. Everything’s done for you, even the thinking at times! You can relax, eat good food, enjoy a nice drink and meet some great people. The only downside being that all too soon they have to go home. Today we are saying goodbye to a lovely family we met a few days ago. They’ve ventured out with us to discover new restaurants and have been very enjoyable company.Our game of Uno at Bustani was particular fun.
This afternoon we are treated to a fashion show of beautifully designed African clothes.They are made by Bombolulu Workshops (www.apdk.bombolulu.com), an organisation dedicated to helping to train and employ disabled people in Kenya.I couldn’t resist picking up these two little beauties but managed to steer clear of the bags, quite an achievement for me as Agy claims I have a bag addiction.Never mind girls, they’ll be back in a couple of weeks, I’ll get my chance again then!
We’re now sitting on the beach front watching the moon shimmering on the sea, a golden moment.Suddenly a creature scuttles across the sand. What could it be, a crab, a sand vole, a turtle? No, a hedgehog. A hedgehog?!
The hedgehog
A Bombululu print,kikoy
17th April
Working today so not much to report except for a scary but hilarious incident that’s just happened to Agy up at Mwamba.He goes to the van for something and spots a monkey sitting on his roof. Oh well, no problem, he thinks.Then he spies another one on the bonnet.He is about to get inside the van when a third monkey appears on the dashboard, inside the van, making Tarzan gestures at him.By the time I get there with my camera the little blighters have disappeared. Never a dull moment here in Kenya.
18th April
We are spending the afternoon visiting.First we go to see a friend who’s been quite poorly recently, having suffered from Hepatitis B.Word of warning if you’re coming to Kenya – get your jabs.Anyway she’s looking much better now and her mum is staying with her at the moment.They’re originally from South Africa and it was great to talk to them about life in Africa and their impressions of the changes since the end of the apartheid era.It’s encouraging to hear their optimism which, on the whole, we felt ourselves when we were over there last year.Having left them we give a call to Harriet, a teacher living in Watamu.We haven’t met Harriet but saw her family last year.We decide to meet at Bustani as I remember the last year it took us an hour to find the place and we felt like the Pied Piper of Hamelin as most of the village kids trailed along after us in search of her home.Harriet’s a wonderful young woman who teaches at a local school which has, wait for it, over 900 pupils and 13 teachers.Anyway, we arrive at her family home and it’s lovely to see everyone again.We practise our very poor Kiswahili and everyone has a good laugh.They kindly offer us fresh coconut juice.Someone climbs a palm tree, cuts down a coconut, slices off the top and voila, instant refreshment. Delicious.
19th April
We’re on our way to Mombasa to get materials for the Mida Creek boardwalk.There was a particularly heavy downpour of rain before we left but the skies have cleared and it’s pretty humid.Mombasa is quite a melting pot of people with many coastal cultures rolled into one.The whole of this Kenya coastline is inhabited by nine tribes, collectively known as the Mijikenda.The supplies shop is owned by Indian people, it’s massive and bustling and the smell reminds me of an old-fashioned hardware store.
We have most of the supplies we need and are heading home.On the way back we pass fields of sisal and note that unusually, the famous baobab tree, a symbol of Africa, is covered with leaves.These ancient trees (as old as 2000 years) have very thick trunks but shorter, thicker branches which resemble roots.For this reason it is also known as the upside-down tree.
Baobab tree in leaf
Bombululu pendant
20 April
20th April
I’m working at Mwamba today.A frequent event here is a power cut.As we won’t be able to work on the computers we decide to tackle the filing system.I’m working with another volunteer, a lovely Kenyan girl called Karo.We spend our day ploughing through papers.Agy, on the other hand, is having a much more exciting time.He has to go into Malindi to pick up some more materials for the boardwalk.Now, together with speedbumps, police roadblocks are a common occurrence.All vehicles are stopped and, horror of horrors, they discover a problem with the insurance.Suffice it to say that there are ways and means of avoiding 6 months in gaol and Agy will not be spending a night in a police cell.
He and Kadenge finally manage to get over to Mida Creek and begin work on the boardwalk.
21st April
The heat has finally got the better of me today and I’m confined to bed (don’t worry mum, I’m fine!).
Once again, Agy’s having all the fun.He meets up with the guys at Mida Creek.If you know anything about development you’ve probably heard of dollar-a-day wages.Well most of these boys are earning more or less that and supporting their families.Incredibly, they’re quite philosophical about it and just take it as it comes.He meets the Chairman of ASSETS, a wonderful man called Hemed.Hemed explains how Mida Creek has really become a community venture and everyone has a stake in it.He owns 7 of the coral blocks being used to construct a new banda and posh kitchen/barbecue area for the tourists who visit.They will be offered fish and crab freshly caught from the Creek.